Though its size now pales in comparison to that of Montevideo, riverside Colonia del Sacramento was once the dominant town in the Banda Oriental (the region that became Uruguay). Colônia do Sacramento was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 (hence its original spelling). It stood only a few hours across the Río de la Plata estuary from Spain's growing administrative center for the the River Plate colonies, Buenos Aires. As such, Colônia was a Portuguese challenge to Spanish hegemony on the River Plate. In particular, the town was a center for contraband and smuggling—an activity that sapped the Spanish Crown's profiteering in the region. As a result, it wasn't long before Spain grew intolerant of Portuguese Colônia. Founding Montevideo was Spain's first response, and following decades of conflict, Colônia passed from Portuguese to Spanish control in 1777. From that point on, Colonia took a back seat to Montevideo in terms of trade and importance in the Banda Oriental.

In recent times, Colonia has reinvented itself as a touristic and recreational center. An hour by ferry from Buenos Aires, the sleepy provincial capital has become a favorite day- or weekend trip for Argentines and other foreign tourists who come to wander the old colonial streets and relax by the river. There are several museums highlighting the town's unique history, and the nearby countryside around Colonia is a perfect introduction to the gently rolling hills and quietude of Uruguay's interior.

In this shot, the Monkey rests by the waters of the Río de la Plata in Colonia. You can see the town's signature lighthouse in the distance.

Owing to the likelihood of being attacked by the Spanish, Portuguese Colônia do Sacramento grew up as a walled city. Although many of the walls have since been removed, the Monkey did find an intact section of the ramparts. The land entrance to the walls seen here is the Puerta de Campo, which dates from 1745.

El Mono keeps quiet on Colonia's Calle de Suspiros, the Street of Whispers. This photo gives a clear look at the cobblestone streets and Portuguese colonial architecture that helped land Colonia del Sacramento on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

With no domestic auto industry to speak of, Uruguay once resembled Cuba in terms of the quantity of vintage automobiles cruising its streets. Of course, with Argentina and Brasil (both centers of South American auto manufacturing) as neighbors, classic cars are becoming a less common sight in Uruguay. But they are still around, especially in the countryside.

Here, on the picturesque streets of Colonia, the Monkey pretends to be a hood ornament on a 1930s roadster that has seen better days.

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